Pushing up the Pamir Highway

Day 7. With a drawn-out yawn and an extensive stretch, my eyelids slowly peeled apart to reveal the bowed wooden skeleton and intricately embroidered canvas surface of a yurt. Plopped in the front yard of Pamir Hotel, the five cots lining the yurt’s circular floor provided a comfortable nighttime refuge Continue Reading

Cycling the Pamir Highway

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Hitchbiking the Pamir Highway: Dushanbe to Khorog

I cycled several kilometers out of Dushanbe and held out my thumb. Almost immediately, a Hyundai Porter⁠—something halfway between a pickup truck and a flatbed, very common in Central Asia⁠—pulled over, tossed my bike in the bed, and we set off. For the next hour and a half, the driver Continue Reading