Pushing up the Pamir Highway

Day 7. With a drawn-out yawn and an extensive stretch, my eyelids slowly peeled apart to reveal the bowed wooden skeleton and intricately embroidered canvas surface of a yurt. Plopped in the front yard of Pamir Hotel, the five cots lining the yurt’s circular floor provided a comfortable nighttime refuge Continue Reading

Cycling the Pamir Highway

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Hitchbiking the Pamir Highway: Dushanbe to Khorog

I cycled several kilometers out of Dushanbe and held out my thumb. Almost immediately, a Hyundai Porter⁠—something halfway between a pickup truck and a flatbed, very common in Central Asia⁠—pulled over, tossed my bike in the bed, and we set off. For the next hour and a half, the driver Continue Reading

Tajik police: a new standard of efficiency

Tajikistan’s police are rumored to be corrupt bribe-mongers, but my experience was different. They were ridiculously, over-the-top helpful, in the most inefficient way possible. Rumor has it that a couple years ago, some Romanian motorbikers posted a video on YouTube of  Tajik cops extorting a bribe from them. The video Continue Reading

Tajikistan’s lesser-known paradise

After a month in the hot flat deserts of Uzbekistan, crossing the border into the Panjikent region of Tajikistan felt magical. Ahead of us lay a perfect asphalt road winding up a mountain valley with the snow-capped peaks of the Fann Mountains in the distance. This was the place that Continue Reading

Skiing in Armenia

Tsakhkadzor, Armenia. 7 March, 2017. Tsakhkadzor is Armenia’s biggest and least impressive ski resort. With 4×2-person fixed-line lifts and one non-functional 4-seater, the resort cannot handle large crowds, but that’s okay, because there’s no reason why a lot of people would want to go there. The slopes range from so Continue Reading