Cycling the Pamir Highway

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Hitchbiking the Pamir Highway: Dushanbe to Khorog

I cycled several kilometers out of Dushanbe and held out my thumb. Almost immediately, a Hyundai Porter⁠—something halfway between a pickup truck and a flatbed, very common in Central Asia⁠—pulled over, tossed my bike in the bed, and we set off. For the next hour and a half, the driver Continue Reading

Tajik police: a new standard of efficiency

Tajikistan’s police are rumored to be corrupt bribe-mongers, but my experience was different. They were ridiculously, over-the-top helpful, in the most inefficient way possible. Rumor has it that a couple years ago, some Romanian motorbikers posted a video on YouTube of  Tajik cops extorting a bribe from them. The video Continue Reading